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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.